Medea 55m S 4b ★★
29-Apr-2017, G Widdowson, D Bodecott

Climbs the huge corner between the top pitches of Corkscrew and Double Slab. A minor classic. Well protected and sunny (In Greek Mythology Medea was the grand-daughter of Helios, the Sun God). Will stay clean with use.
Start 10m above the starts of Corkscrew and Double Slab at a grey corner (X marked on the rock).
1 25m 4a Climb the grey corner by its left wall. Follow the slab above and the second pitch of Double Slab up the left-hand grey-streaked groove and step left to a superb balcony with three good flake belays.
2 30m 4b Move right into the large corner and climb direct, the best rock is on the right wall. The overhangs at the top are wet, loose and dirty, so finish to the right or left (harder and not as clean), both alternatives have been climbed.

Belay at the back of the terrace, large bollards up left and spikes lower down just left of Talulah’s start. Spare rope useful.

Descent: The Quartz Rake (see photo-diagram below) is a potential death-trap, a couple of awkward moves in descent, usually wet and poised above a huge drop. Safer to walk round the crag top and down the first grassy gully.

Guidebook Photo-diagram (updated)
Miners’ Crag, Messalina (Left hand line) and Medea (right hand line).


Medea P1 start
Medea P1 approaching belay
Medea p2, First Ascent

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *