Never Mind the Guidebook

Never Mind the Guidebook | 160m | V, 6 *
14-Jan-2017, Ben Pearce and Paul Headland

Traces a line up the main buttress linking two short icy steps to reach the headwall which is taken direct up a steep corner. The route may share some of the lower climbing with Left Buttress.

P 1-3 100 m From a snow bay just above the toe of the central buttress climb an icy corner (III/IV) for 5 m to easier ground, aim for a second obvious icy corner some 100 m higher up. Belay as required.

P 4 40 m The icy corner is climbed directly (III/IV) for 10 m, easier ground leads to a second snowfield below the headwall. Spike belay below a snow / turfy ledge directly below a prominent corner at the top of the headwall.

P 5 25 m. V (6) Steeper than it looks! Climb onto the ledge and arrange gear. Make a strenuous move up and right using hooks onto another sloping ledge which gives access to the upper corner. Climb the corner with interest on hooks and feet bridging on sloping holds. There is a helpful blob of turf at mid height and a nut can be placed near the top in a flakey jug on the right wall. Belay by threading a huge block (2 x 240 cm slings needed)

P 6 10 m Easy climbing leads to the top.

The FA team note that they didn’t have the guidebook with them so they linked together the best line they could see which was clear of other teams. The lower part of the may coincide with Left Buttress; overall an unbalanced route in terms of difficulty. Pitch lengths for all apart from P5 may be inaccurate as they were mostly soloing.

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