Start 5m round and left of North-East Chimney at an overhanging groove with a crack on its right.
1 16m 5a Climb the groove – tricky but well protected. Easy slabs lead to a belay under a shallow chimney with a chockstone.
2 28m 4b Traverse left under the headwall and round the arête to a mossy groove. Starting from the groove climb the wall just to its left moving back right across the groove at its top (taking care with poised chockstones). Avoid the repulsive continuation groove by the rib on its right.
Note Climbed on sight. The first pitch is clean. The second pitch felt harder than 4b to lead but this is because the gear placements and some holds were full of turf and moss – should be easier now.
Chris King leading p1 on the first ascent
Chris King on p2, first ascent.