Everest

Everest expeditions involving FRCC members

FRCC members shown in bold

1921 First Everest Reconnaissance Expedition (British):

Guy Bullock, Lt Col Charles Howard-Bury (leader), Dr Alexander Kellas, George Mallory (replaced Raeburn as climbing leader), Major Henry Morshead (Survey of India), Harold Raeburn (climbing leader until retired sick), Major Oliver Wheeler (Survey of India), Dr Alexander Wollaston.

The expedition explored the northern approaches and the Ronbuk and West Ronbuk Glaciers. Mallory and Bullock found the approach over the East Ronbuk Glacier to the North Col.

1922 Second Everest Expedition (British):

Brigadier General Charles Bruce (leader), Colin Crawford, George Finch, Dr Tom Longstaff, George Mallory, John Morris, Major Henry Morshead, Capt John Noel, Major Edward Norton, Dr Howard Somervell, Lt Col Edward Strutt (deputy leader), Dr Arthur Wakefield.

Following the East Ronbuk Glacier and the North East Ridge an altitude of 27,300 feet was reached by George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce using oxygen.

1924 Third Everest Expedition (British):

Bentley Beetham, Brigadier General Charles Bruce (leader until he contracted malaria), Captain Geoffrey Bruce, John de Vars Hazard, Major Richard Hingston (doctor), Andrew Irvine, George Mallory, Captain John Noel (photographer), Major Edward Norton (replaced Bruce as leader), Noel Odell, Edward Shebbeare, Dr Howard Somervell.

Norton reached a record altitude of 28,150 feet without oxygen; Mallory and Irvine were lost somewhere above 27,700 feet and when last seen were ‘going strong for the top’ but it is regarded as unlikely that they reached the summit.

1933 Fourth British Expedition:

Hugh Ruttledge (leader), Captain E St John Birnie, Major Hugh Boustead, TA Brocklebank, Colin Crawford, Dr Raymond Greene, Percy Wyn Harris, Jack Longland, Dr W McLlean, Edward Shebbeare (second in command), Eric Shipton, WR Smijth-Windham (wireless operator), EC Thompson (wireless operator), Lawrence Wager, George Wood-Johnson.

Camp IV was established at 27,400 feet. Harris and Wager reached an altitude of 28,150 feet (equalling Norton’s record of 1924) as did Frank Smythe climbing alone later. An ice axe belonging to Mallory or Irvine was found.

1935 British Reconnaissance Expedition:

Eric Shipton (leader), Dan Bryant, Edwin Kempson, Bill Tilman, Dr Charles Warren, Edmund Wigram, Michael Spender (surveyer).

The prime objective was to explore, survey and map an approach via the Ronbuk Glacier. The North Col was reached late in the season.

1936 Sixth British Expedition:

Hugh Ruttledge (leader), J Gavin, Percy Wyn Harris, Dr Noel Humphreys, Edwin Kempson, John Morris, Peter Oliver, Eric Shipton, Frank Smythe, Dr Charles Warren, Edmund Wigram, WR Smijth-Windham (wireless operator).

The western slopes of the North Col were observed, and appeared to have potential, before an early onset of the Monsoon forced a halt.

1938 British Expedition:

Noel Odell, Peter Lloyd, Peter Oliver, Eric Shipton, Frank Smythe, Bill Tilman (leader), Dr Charles Warren.

Very heavy snow conditions and an early monsoon curtailed the expedition at 27,300 feet.

1951 Reconnaissance Expedition (British):

Tom Bourdillon, Edmund Hillary, Bill Murray, Earle Riddiford, Eric Shipton (leader), Dr Mike Ward.

The Nepal approach was explored beyond the Khumbu Icefall and nearly into the Western Cwm.

1952 Expedition in preparation for the attempt in 1953:

Tom Bourdillon, Robert Colledge, Dr Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Edmund Hillary, George Lowe, Griff Pugh, Earle Riddiford, Campbell Secord, Eric Shipton (leader).

An application for permission to climb Everest had favoured the Swiss. A British application was deferred until 1953 so, in preparation, the climbers went to Cho Oyu.

1953 British Expedition: FIRST ASCENT

George Band, Tom Bourdillon, Dr Charles Evans (deputy leader), Alf Gregory, Edmund Hillary, Colonel John Hunt (leader), George Lowe, Wilfred Noyce, Dr Mike Ward, Griff Pugh (physiologist), Tom Stobart (cameraman), Mike Westmacott, Charles Wylie.

Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on 29th May.

1972 British South West Face Expedition:

Dave Bathgate, Mick Burke, Nick Estcourt, Chris Bonington (leader), Dougal Haston, Kelvin Kent, Hamish MacInnes, Jimmy Roberts (deputy leader), Dr Barney Rosedale, Doug Scott, Graham Tiso.

Appalling weather prevented climbing above 27,200 feet; the climbers were stopped at the Rock Band and the expedition was halted.

1975 British South West Face Expedition:

Chris Bonington (leader), Hamish MacInnes (deputy leader), Peter Boardman, Martin Boysen, Paul Braithwaite, Mick Burke, Mike Cheney, Charles Clarke (doctor), Dave Clarke, Jim Duff (doctor), Nick Estcourt, Alan Fyffe, Adrian Gordon, Dougal Haston, Mike Rhodes, Ronnie Richards, Doug Scott, Mike Thompson.

Doug Scott and Dougal Haston reached the summit on 24th September; Peter Boardman and Sherpa Pertemba repeated the climb on 26th September.

1985 Norwegian South Col Expedition:

Chris Bonington reached the summit on 21st April.

1996 British North Face Expedition:

Alan Hinkes and four others reached the summit via the North Ridge on 19th May. This was Al’s sixth summit over 8000m; he completed the set of fourteen in 2005.