Central Line 15m E2 5b ☆☆
Posted by: martin bagness, 15.04.202509.04.2025, Martin Bagness, Pippa Archer This could be called Expulsion Right Hand Direct (True) Eliminate Start – but then you could climb it quicker than say it.
Climb Direct to the tat in the break (decent small RP on L), then up the original route via the flake. Makes a nice sustained pitch.
The other grades on the crag (as given in the free download) seemed very generous. Expulsion Crack HVS 5a/b rather than E1 5c. Indiana Jones E1 5a rather than E3 5c. Expulsion R Hand E1 5b rather than E2 5c. High Noon VS 5a.
Didn’t do the others.
Hi Martin, well done leading the direct start to Expulsion right hand, a great route indeed. I tried it a few times but kept slipping off the technical start although the next bit up to the threader/nut felt ok. At least 5c in my book. I personally don’t agree with the down grading of the other routes, perhaps Rick Graham can comment having climbed some of them himself. The one questionable route grade was Indiana Jones which due to multiple parties initially claiming it I think the grade got a bit mixed up. It seemed to hinge on if the edge was climbed direct from ground level or if a side runner was taken. Perhaps E2 5b is a good shout. We will have to see what future climbers make of it.