To the right of the crag base and some 15m higher is an elegant pillar seamed by cracks. Start at an upstanding flake at the foot of the left-bounding arête.
1 25m Starting up the left edge of pillar, climb the attractive crack line. Continue up easier ground to belay at the back of the main terrace.
2 20m (4b) The steep wall above contains a hanging groove and right of this is a square-cut groove. Climb up and stand on a good rock ledge at the foot of the square-cut groove. Good gear in this protects a bold traverse left to gain the hanging groove. Climb this and the wall above, then traverse across the slabby rock rib to belay on a large jammed block below a crack system
3 20m (4c) Step off the belay block and climb to a large perched flake. Move left round this and, using handholds in the diagonal crack, step out onto the slabby wall beyond. Interesting delicate climbing leads straight up this wall to easier ground.
Having climbed the first pitch of “Two Old Codgers”, thinking we were still on it and making the description fit (as you do!) my pal Graham Callandar climbed straight into the hanging groove thus making a direct version of this pitch. Following, I’d say it’s perhaps 5a and his runners weren’t 100% convincing.
Incidentally I wouldn’t give such a disjointed, escapable climb 2 stars as in the guide I printed off from here, though agree the rock is good and the climbing nice.