North-East Climb, Pillar Rock (p 242, FRCC Gable & Pillar, 2007)
The current description is hard to follow and leads to rope drag. Here is a better one.
1 As currently described.
2 26m Follow p2 of North Climb, past the big block and 3m chimney (about 15m). Move up 1m and traverse left across ribs and slabs (not obvious) to an awkward step round onto grass. Belay at a chockstone on the left edge.
3 23m Move right and climb up onto the slab where it is cleanest. Traverse left to more grass and climb a short chimney and then a short chimney/groove to an awkward exit. Scramble up left to belay under a fine arete.
4 24m Walk left to a long V-groove and climb it to a flat stance.
5 & 6 As currently described. (alternatively follow this variation to p5 Rather than traversing the mossy wall to the right, it is possible to climb straight up the groove and join the chimney after 5m.
NBThe line on the photo-diagram where the route leaves North Climb should be slightly higher.
Stephen Reid