Ooh 55m E1 5b
Posted by: Stephen Reid, 01.07.202130.06.2021, JF Hughes, SJH Reid

A counter diagonal to Err with two good pitches, one strenuous but well protected, the other bold and technical. Start by scrambling left from the Western Scree, at a higher level than the West Wall Traverse, to pass under a large clean isolated buttress (on Auld Lang Syne) to a good flake belay at its left side.

1 25m (5a). Drop down slightly and move left to a shallow groove which is ascended easily to a grass ledge. Traverse left to the foot of cracks running up the right side of a stunning looking arête. Climb up onto a short pinnacle on the right, then step back left to gain the left-most crack and ascend this with difficulty until it is possible to move left to a ledge on the arête. Finish up the left-hand side of the arete to belay on the Pulpit.

2 30m (5b). Descend from the Pulpit by a wide crack on its left side for 3m, then traverse left 2m to the left side of a clean rib. Step up onto the rib and swing right into a groove (as for Err), then climb the blocky rib on the left to some good gear at the top of a small pinnacle/flake. Make an awkward step left and up (micro wire and black Alien microcam if you look carefully), then ease upwards and make delicate moves up right to better holds. Continue to grass, then in the same line climb a short slabby rib and even shorter wall to belay on The Old West Route.

Pictures: 1) The line of Ooh relevant to Err.

2) Jonathan Hughes moving left to the ledge from the steep cracks on p1.

3) Jonathan Hughes about to commit to the crux on p2.

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