Route 14 Persephone HVS – withdraw star; insert dagger and loose rock icon – The large horizontal flake used to traverse right to finish has become detached and is completely unstable. The left hand end has already fallen. This makes the top section of the route extremely dangerous and difficult to protect. The route is best avoided; this flake will fall. Climbers at the base of the crag under Persephone, Swing to the Left and Swing to the Right are in danger of being hit when this collapses. Take great care. Removing the flake would make sense.
UPDATE 1 Oct 2018
PERSEPHONE has returned from the underworld.
The loose horizontal flake has now been removed and was last seen heading for the Langdale timeshare complex. The route is once again clean and as safe as any route can be in Langdale.
No change to the overall grade ( HVS 5a ) however the demise of the block has in my opinion improved the continuity of the top section of the route. The climbing is now more sustained above the crux and requires an interesting technical mantelshelf move up the steep headwall to gain the comfortable exit holds to finish. Worth **
M. Scrowston
PERSEPHONE has returned from the underworld.
The loose horizontal flake has now been removed and was last seen heading for the Langdale timeshare complex. The route is once again clean and as safe as any route can be in Langdale.
No change to the overall grade ( HVS 5a ) however the demise of the block has in my opinion improved the continuity of the top section of the route. The climbing is now sustained above the crux and requires an interesting technical mantelshelf move up the steep headwall to gain the comfortable exit holds to finish. **