Vesper, formerly a ** VS, was omitted from the 2015 Borrowdale guide as it had grown a thick coating of moss rendering it unclimbable. It has now been re-cleaned and restored to its former glory; regular ascents may keep it clean and this is a case of use it or lose it (again). Along with Adam the first pitch of Vesper always was the final exam of the Shepherd’s VSs. The grade is top end VS or just HVS depending on how bold you feel. Care is needed to protect both leader and second.
From Borrowdale (2000)
Vesper 48 m VS 4c ** 1955
An interesting excursion, starting at the left end of Brown Crag just left of the overhanging base of the crag at a rib. The first pitch is quite serious for leader and second.
1 18m 4c Ascend the rib to below an overhang then make a short traverse right until stopped by a bulge. Move below this and into a corner. Move up rightwards across the wall to a scoop. Climb up the wall above to a tree on a narrow ledge on the right.
2 30m 4b Move right along the ledge and up above an old oak. Climb the overhang on the left and continue right to below a bulging wall. Ascend it leftwards and finish up a steep groove.
The party who cleaned the line suggest the following description:
Start on the left by a massive tree. Skip up and right, clean holds and gear for free. Traverse under the nose towards the brushed wall, it gets a bit bold as the incuts appear so fix some good gear (in the horizontal slot) before launching. Boldly right and up to a thank God flake and two big placements (wires and friends). Reach right for the sharp block (sound as a pound) and pull onto the ledge and right to easier ground. Take care with belays, they are good but fiddly. Finish up the juggy wall, options for all.
As a bonus, with the first pitch of Vesper clean the following route is probably feasible (on a quiet day).
Brown Crag Traverse 86m VS 4c * 1955
A pleasant outing, starting as for Vesper.
1 18m 4c Climb pitch 1 of Vesper to the narrow ledge.
2 24m 4b Move right and up onto a heathery ledge below the overhang. Continue rightwards onto Brown Crag Wall and follow this to the tree belay.
3 8m Climb up rightwards to a large rock ledge below the last pitch of Brown Slabs Arête.
4 24 m 4a Traverse right across the slabs to Brown Slabs Crack.
5 12m Climb the slab above on the left to finish.