Arrowhead Ridge Direct. See Gable and Pillar 2007. Pages 84 and 85.
This route is longer than stated in the guidebook. It is 135m not 80m. I think the description is wrong. There is no good ledge (as given as the belay for P1) before you get to the pinnacle (as mentioned in the description for P2). The photo topo on page 84 of the 2007 guidebook, shows the first belay by the pinnacle (so does not agree with the description).
Higher up after stepping across ‘The Strid’ there is a good belay platform straight away. From here it is 48m of easy climbing to reach a belay at the end of the climbing. Where you can decide which descent route to take.
The Arrowhead can be difficult for the short, there is a very good alternative to this:
When you reach the Arrowhead an alternative is to take a fine traverse right. At the end of this you can swing down onto a small platform. From here traverse right into a corner where the main ridge joins the Arrowhead. Work diagonally rightwards up the flank of the ridge until a small stance but good belay is reached at the base of a pair of cracks. Alternatively continue up to the ridge crest and belay at a block.
Description: Steve Broadbent gets the description right in his book ‘Mountain Rock’ 2020.
1. 25m Climb the crest of the lower arete on positive holds to a small stance but good belay by a pinnacle. There are two tricky sections high up on the arete that yield to a positive approach.
2. 30m Go up the excellent steep wall above to gain the arete. Follow this in tremendous position and pull steeply onto the summit of The Arrowhead. From here make a wide stride to the main ridge, where an a cheval shuffle leads to a pair of cracks on the right hand side.
Go up these to a small stance, then move up to belay at a block. (All a bit exciting especially for the short! Also not easy to protect the second and give support after the Arrowhead. So some might prefer the alternative mentioned above).
3. 25m Continue along the easy ridge to the summit of a pinnacle. Make another stride across ‘The Strid’ to gain a large belay ledge.
4. 48m Easy scrambling along the ridge then up a rocky rib, with the occasional ‘surprise’ move reaches a belay just below a grassy saddle. It is possible to split this pitch after 20m before the rocky rib.
5. Walk up 5m to the grassy saddle.