Route Feedback: Blue Bayou
Posted by: Andy March, 28.04.2022

There are several mistakes in the Blue Quarry section of  Sport & Slate (2020).

The photo on page 102 is incorrectly captioned, the climber on the right is doing Blue Bayou not A Slight Slate Escapade.

Blue Bayou: the description on page 103 and the photo topo on page 101 imply that there is a lower-off up and to the right;  there isn’t. We traversed left from the third bolt into the groove on the left, and lowered off from there. The 1994 Rockfax guide The Lakes shows a lower-off at the third bolt, which is nearer the truth.

The photo-diagram on page 101 is also wrong. The line marked 10. A Slight Slate Escapade is actually 11. Blue Bayou therefore the symbol 11 pointing rightwards is redundant and incorrect.

Palmer’s Performance, if climbed according to the text on p103, is considerably harder than 5+.

Blue Movie is much easier than E2, E1 would be a better grade.

All the fixed gear we saw in the quarry is poor, some of it dreadful, e.g. the lower-offs of Slight Slate Escapade and Palmer’s Performance are both a single bolt with a rusty maillon. The enormous leaning flake at the start of Blue Riband appears to have fallen over.

Nevertheless, thanks to the FRCC and its guidebook team for their hard work, I know it isn’t easy!

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