Sunlight Crack Severe. The guidebook says “Start just right of a thin crack, 3m right of the left-bounding corner”. There is no crack and if you climb the best looking line up the slab at this point, there is no protection either. However, about 2m right of the corner there is an obvious grass ledge, low down, slanting up the crag. At it’s right hand end it is about 1m above the ground. Above the right hand end of the ledge is a a vague groove/depression running up the crag. If you climb this there is adequate protection. The climbing and rock is better just right of this groove but the protection is in the groove. It might be better to climb the good rock and place protection in the groove to the left. Either way this reaches the small ledge beneath the square cut overhang (as for Cleo’s Epitath). Traverse right, then up, to pass this overhang and attain ledges. From here continue as in the guidebook. Worth two stars **.
I see where Ken is coming from. I was up there today and the best line is definitely up the obvious clean slab but the guide book description says — climb boldly up the slab for 8m — and yes it is technical and virtually unprotected. If climbed this way I would suggest beefing the severe grade up a notch.