Climbed onsight. The central line of the buttress to the left (looking up) of the Fishermans’ Steps descent. The route is most suited to those looking for adventure and is not for the faint of heart. Begin at the toe of the buttress, just right of a large leaning block.
1 20m 4b Climb the obvious corner and the crack in the wall above to reach a band of poor rock, traverse the band leftwards until its end and gain the ledge above (ancient bolt belay). Loose.
2 20m 6a Climb the steep cracks to the left of the belay to reach a large jammed block, negotiate past this with care and follow the groove-line up and right to exit onto the grass ledge above.
3 30m 6a Ascend the slanting crack directly above the belay until it steepens and peters out. Make committing and difficult moves rightwards on crumbling holds to reach the huge detached flake, climb onto this and move up and rightwards, eventually reaching sanctuary in a crevasse between the flake and the mainland.
Easy scrambling leads to the top.
(North Head – p282)