Sardinia has long being known as a great rock climbing destination with its wild and spectacular rocky interior and coastline. There are many established sport climbing crags across the island including the popular areas at Cala Gonone, Domusnovas, Isili, Ulassai and Jerzu. These sport climbing areas are mainly single pitch, though at Supramonte, situated between Dorgali and Oliena, there is a big wall rock climbing area with many bolted multi-pitch routes up to 400m long. Sardinia also offers some great granite bouldering around Nuoro and the capital Cagliari.
The intention is to base ourselves in Cala Gonome on the east coast. The Temperature is typically around 20C in October.
Rock Climbing in Cala Gonone
Cala Gonone has long been established as one of the main rock climbing areas in Sardinia and as such attracts many international visitors. There are 24 crags within the immediate vicinity offering over 1,100 routes.. Primarily the majority of the rock climbing here is single pitch sport routes, offering many different styles from slabs, steep walls and fierce overhangs on hard limestone rock.
There is some multi-pitch rock climbing to be found in Cala Gonone, though this tends to be easier routes (up to French 6a), which are not bolted at all, and are therefore protected using traditional nuts and cams. However there are exceptions to this notably; Grotta dei Colombi crag that has fully bolted routes up to 210m long in the 6b-6c grade range; and La Poltrona crag where all the routes are fully bolted across a wide range of grades. There is also some sea cliff climbing to be found at Biddiriscottai, Grotta dei Colombi, Millennium and Cala Luna.
The area is also ideal for other activities such as walking, diving, snorkelling and relaxing on idyllic beaches.
Accommodation
There are lots of reasonably priced self-catering apartments in Cala Gonome, try Booking.com or Airbnb.
Flights & Car Hire
There are flights from most UK airports to Alghero or Cagliari. Car hire is necessary and can be booked from the airport.
Guidebooks
Pietra Di Luna – Single Pitch Sport Climbs
The fifth fully updated edition to sport climbing on the Italian island of Sardinia – more than 3600 single-pitch sport routes described with full colour photography throughout. English language.
Pietra Di Luna – Trad & Multi Pitches
This guidebook is dedicated to multi pitch trad and sport routes throughout Sardinia, as well as single pitch routes that are not equipped. It is a very comprehensive guidebook with high quality colour photo topos and including detailed crag descriptions, access information etc. Approximately 1,400 routes.
Arrampicare a Cala Gonone
More than 1,130 climbing routes around Cala Gonone and Dorgali in Sardinia. In Italian with English and German language translation. 2017 photo-topo edition.
Websites
https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/rock-climbing-sardinia-cala-gonone
https://www.climbingsardinia.com/topos/
https://www.cordee.co.uk/book-list.php?t=15&m=96&c=285&f=&p=2
Please contact Steve Woollard for more information at steve@swoollard.plus.com